How Waves are Formed
Sitting on a beach, watching the waves roll in one by one, and breaking just steps away from sandy toes is a perfect moment for a day of a surfer. Watching the horizon in the distance waiting for ‘the perfect wave’ to arrive. The ocean swells, the wind blows offshore, and the perfect wave is born.
Waves are created in the ocean far from the beach they take their ‘last breath’. The swell is created by a low-pressure system in the ocean far from its final destination. The wind generated from this storm, if powerful enough, will create what we call swell. As it travels thru the ocean it can either pass lots of obstacles, such as reefs or shallow waters, or it can pass thru uninterrupted. This journey thru deep water creates larger waves as it arrives to the its destination. The final resting place varies across the world; reef, a point, or beach breaks all create different types of waves.
Once the wave arrives it has yet another battle with the wind. If the wind is blowing offshore, from land to sea, the wave will have better form than onshore wind. Depending on whom you talk to, everyone has different criteria for their perfect wave. The elements, as a whole, seem to all remain the same.
Wind- Offshore
Crowds- None
Wave Type- Long, peeling lines
Ironically enough, Nicaragua has a perfect wave for just about everyone. Our season tends to last from May until September, although some years it can start sooner and last longer. The season brings waves and swells for days. In the southern part of Nicaragua, we have offshore wind almost all year round because of Lake Nicaragua, located just miles from the ocean. The ‘lake effect, the cooling of the land between the lake and the ocean, creates offshore wind. The wind is almost always perfect for surfing.
Another note is the crowd. Nicaragua is still a travel destination not trekked by many, so the crowds are minimal. The lack of people in the water creates a sense of family and community.
In Nicaragua wave types vary greatly, this quality alone makes it easy for everyone to find their perfect wave. All over Nicaragua you can find reef breaks, beach breaks, point breaks, and even spots that only break at ten feet plus!
Come find your perfect wave at Chica Brava! Learn to surf or improve the skills you already have, by booking a trip today.
